Tuscany, the birthplace of the renaissance has long been the destination for oenophiles, nature lovers and casual travelers alike. Second only the region of Veneto with Venice as its capital, Tuscany draws millions of visitors annually. A rental car is necessary in Tuscany to tour around the endless communes or cittàs. While most Italians are able to understand English, its appreciated and courteous to attempt to at least say please (per favore), thank you (grazie) and good morning (Buongiorno) in Italian.
Pro Tip: most menus have both English and Italian language displayed, choose your food in English, but offer the order up to the waiter using the Italian words (and pointing, so you can be sure you’re getting what you want).
Where to Stay: while there is no shortage of bed and breakfasts all over the region, where you choose to stay should be determined by what you want to do. For the ideal mix of bustle and relaxation, consider the sprawling Hilton Grand Vacation resort of Borgo Alle Vigne in the commune of Selvatelle. With one- and two-bedroom villas fully equipped with kitchens and wash machines this makes a great launchpad for your Tuscan adventures. Key features include a swimming pool, easy access to grocery stores and even a bakery service 6 days a week (except for Sunday) where a local baker drives onto the property at 9am for about 20 minutes or while supplies last with fresh baked breads and pastries. The resort also boasts a small selection of local wines on property available for purchase. A very courteous English-speaking staff makes it easy for this property to be your launchpad for all things Tuscany. Another added advantage is the beautiful medieval hill-top town of Peccioli which is visible from the property is an easy 10-minute drive from the resort. For the past two years, toward the end of June, Peccioli has hosted a festival in honor of the Black Truffle called La Notte Nera which features music, artists, gastronomy, and an evening of revelry all through the streets of Peccioli.
Pro Tip: The morning bakery service is first come first served, so get there earlier than 9am to be among the first in line.
Where to Eat: While there is no shortage of delicious pizza and pasta available on every street corner in Tuscany, consider La Locanda delle Streghe for true Tuscan hospitality and culinary excellence in an unassuming, low-key manner. For something truly Tuscan, start with the Ribolita or kale and bread soup. Don’t expect it to be brothy, rather think if it as a hearty starter with the texture that might throw you off before you come to embrace it. The flavors are absolutely delicious. You cannot go wrong with anything you order here. You’ll find the texture of the pizza dough to be crispy yet chewy, the pasta al dente in a way that’s firm and yet perfect and the flavors of the foods are fresh and represent what’s in season in the area.
What to Do: An excellent feature at the Hilton property is the plethora of information that they have available to you about all the things you can do in the greater Tuscan area. They are even able to make restaurant and winery recommendations and even make your reservations which are highly recommended.
Podere La Chiesa (meaning land of the church, since this was land previously owned by the Catholic church), a local family-run winery is a 3-minute walk from the resort and features exceptional wines using Sangiovese, merlot, and canaiolo (native Tuscan grapes) grapes for their wines which they ship worldwide. This property stands out because of its non-Tuscan architecture. Designed by famous Italian architect Andrea Mannochi, this concrete building has the color due to pigment being mixed into the liquid concrete to give it the Tuscan look. The holes in the building represent a bunch of Sangiovese grapes. Another unique feature of this winery is their affinity to art and their dedicated gallery space regularly features the work of local artists. If you go, a reservation is highly recommended as they are open by appointment only. The cost is 35€ per person and includes an explanation of the winery and their process, a viewing of the gallery and a meal with a tasting of 7 of their wines.
The area around Selvatelle is home to hill-top medieval towns like Terricciola, Peccioli, Casanova and others. These are all within a 5 – 15-minute drive of the resort. You can spend as little or as much time as you want wandering the narrow cobblestone streets simply imagining what life would have been like in the bygone eras.
Slightly farther afield are the cities of Pisa, Lucca, Florence, Siena and more.
Pisa: One could easily spend a day wandering into and around Pisa’s Cathedral Square or Piazza del Duomo to explore the Baptistry, the Cathedral and going up the 294 steps (or 296 steps) to the top of the 183’3” (or 185’11” on the high side) of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Visiting the square during the earlier part of the day is advised as it gets really busy at and after lunch time. Take a break and enjoy a gelato or an Aperol Spritz at any number of the restaurants beckoning you in with their authentic Italian fare.
Lucca: The well preserved and vibrant walled city of Lucca also known as City of Art is another place where you can lose yourself for the day. The birthplace of Giacomo Puccini and other notable Italian composers and artists, Lucca is known for its Summer Festival which attracts headline performers from all over the globe. Most notably, Santana, Eric Clapton, Duran Duran and Tracy Chapman have all performed at the Piazza Napoleone. You could lose yourself for hours wandering around this beautiful medieval walled city which has retained its ancient charm yet has also modernized in some ways. Climb the Torre delle Ore or the Guinigi Tower to get breathtaking views of the entire city below. Be sure to buy a ticket to visit St. Martin Cathedral, its Bell Tower (the tallest in Lucca) and Church of Saints Giovanni and Reparata. The latter is used as a theater, a museum (housing the painting the Last Supper by famous Italian painter Jacopo Robusti, known as Tintoretto in 1594), and a performance space. It is also home to the archeological complex which depicts the domus, the thermal baths and the original church and baptistery complete with mosaics and graffiti dating back from the 2nd Century BC to the 11th Century AD.
Volterra: Is another notable walled city on a mountaintop in Tuscany and about a 45-minute drive from Selvatelle. An added bonus is the drive takes you through the commune of Lajatico which is the birthplace of Andrea Bocelli. Once a year, Andrea Bocelli performs a concert in his hometown at the Teatro del Silenzio, an outdoor amphitheater which draws crowds from all over the world.
Volterra has been thought to have been continuously inhabited as a city from as far back as the 5th century BC. Consider driving down toward Porta di Docciola outside the walled city for an easy outdoor parking area which will require you to walk up a series of 255 stairs before you get into the bustle of the city center. Volterra is home to Michelin star restaurant Enoteca Del Duca where reservations are essential. This city is known for its alabaster works and if you’re lucky you might find a workshop where either you can create your own or watch it being done for you. Panoramic views are easily available from the bus station. To get away from the bustle of crowds, give yourself a respite in the verdant meadow-like gardens of Archeological Park (and the Etruscan Acropolis) which is wonderfully serene park with walking path all around and including a couple of restaurants a little off the beaten path where you might take in an aperitif or have a gelato. Walk around the 1st century AD Roman theater or take in the Piazza del Priori or main square which is flanked by many of the most important buildings in Volterra. For an exceptional treat, take in Palazzo Viti one of the few private residences open to the public with its ornate Renaissance and Baroque styles.
Whether you plan to spend a week or a month wandering around ancient medieval towns, exploring cathedrals and ruins, sampling some of the finest foods and wines and even exploring beaches and forests; these are all part of the Tuscan experience that will have you wanting more.
